Lundy Island 15th-18th Sept ’07

Lundy, lying off the North Devon coast, has long been a special venue for climbers with a sense of adventure. In fact as early as the late 1890’s Tom Longstaff visited Lundy but sadly no records exist of his exploits. The first recorded ascents by climbers, was not until 1961 and since then Lundy has been the site of many an adventure!

The rock is granite and varies from superb to exfoliating gravel but worry not the guidebook is well packed with starred quality routes! Grades on the island start around severe, though to get the most from the venue climbing VS and above opens up many fine routes. Most of the island’s venues require involved and sometimes serious approaches. It is not the place for the faint of heart.


Getting to Lundy is an adventure in itself, the graceful MS Oldenburg ferry taking visitors from either Bideford or Ilfracombe. Once on the island you are transported back to earlier times with no roads, no cars, only fresh air and wildlife to enjoy, oh and there’s some climbing too!

The various properties on Lundy have been renovated in conjunction with the Landmark Trust and all have a feel befitting the island community.

Other amenities include the island shop and the, atmospheric, Marisco Tavern which serves a fine selection of beers. One of the Marisco’s quirks is a £1 fine if you dare use your mobile whilst in the Tavern!

Trip options

For 2007 you can either opt for a guided or non-guided trip. Both include Ferry, accommodation and full board. Guided clients will be supervised throughout each climbing day. Advice re routes / venues for non-guided clients is readily available.

Guided

The course commences as soon as we land (time dependent upon sailing times) so clients will need to have in their hand luggage appropriate kit for an afternoon’s climbing. This should include food and drink + enough space for a rope. Two full days climbing follow and if sailing times permit a morning’s climb prior to our departure finishes off the trip. A full kit list is provided upon booking (all ropes and rack are provided).

Non-guided

As with guided clients it is advisable to come ‘tooled up’ for climbing straight from the ferry as all of your main luggage is delivered to our accommodation in ‘Lundy time’, which can take some hours! It should be stressed that the final day’s climbing be appropriate to the departure time of the ferry (it will not wait for you!), so do plan accordingly. It is expected that non-guided clients are fully conversant with the adventurous nature of the climbing on the Island and that they are competent to operate as an independent climbing pair. No equipment, instruction or supervision is provided. Advice re suitable routes / venues and approaches is available from Rob.

The accommodation

By popular request we are returning to the Castle keep properties. They consist of three self-contained cottages that make up the castle. Built in 1244 by Henry III the outer walls are three feet thick! They have been rebuilt several times over the centuries, most recently by the Landmark Trust and are cosy and sociable as they form a ‘U’ shape. Each has its own living room, kitchen, bathroom, toilet and twin bedrooms (Castle Keep North has a double bed). To make the trip a shared experience meals will be served in one location, Castle Keep South, as it has the largest dining room / table.

Breakfasts are full English and your packed lunch, DIY. After a full day’s climbing you will be ready to sit down for a filling evening meal (wine provided). If you have the energy you can make tracks to the Tavern, though do take a torch, as the way can be foxy when the fog’s in! If you prefer a quieter night you can just relax in the sitting room reading or enjoying the telling of climbing tales. Electricity is switched off between midnight and 6am so remember to bring a torch and some candles!

Travel to and from the mainland

The outbound sailing, at present set to leave at 8.30am, is from Bideford and it is usual for clients to drive down and stay overnight locally rather than attempt a very early dash from the SE. There many B&B’s locally and convenient campsites if you prefer.

The return sailing is due to land at Ilfracombe around 6pm. This is obviously not where our transport is, however, a coach is provided to deliver us to the port of our outward journey.

In the event of rough seas it may be necessary to be airlifted to or from the Island by helicopter. If this occurs there will be an additional subsidised fee of £20 (2006 price).

Cost

Guided - £450 (two places), Non-guided - £299 (four places)

Booking

Due to booking the accommodation so early a commitment is required and therefore deposits (£100) and booking forms are needed ASAP. A second instalment of £100 is required by 1st May ’07 and a final payment of the outstanding balance by July 1st ’07.

If you have an interest in joining the Lundy ’07 adventure please e-mail me at rob@sugarmouse.co.uk and I will send you booking forms etc. Places are strictly limited and places allotted on a ‘first come first served’ basis.